Lake Robinson holds stories of the region’s history

HAM_0013By James T. Hammond

Before it became known as Lake Robinson, named for a former chairman of the Greer Commission of Public Works, the region comprised the free-flowing South Tyger River, thousands of acres of farms, pastures and woodlands, and a naturally occurring pond known as the Devil Catcher.

I grew up here, on the farm of my grandparents, Claude and Clara Belle Barnette. Today, I live on a piece of that farm, preserved in woodlands and meadows that slope gently down to the shore of Barnette Cove. On what is now the Arrowhead subdivision, as a child I would follow Grandpa Claude through the cornfields as he plowed the weeds and grass from the furrows. Walking barefoot behind Grandpa and his mule, I would kick up clods of earth, and look for the arrowheads that even the youngest of us knew were a hidden legacy of people who lived on this land long before our people came here, just after the Revolutionary War.

Until the Cherokee tribes in the region sided with the British at the onset of the rebellion, the state of South Carolina had recognized this land as belonging to the Cherokee. The colonial government even actively discouraged the descendants of Europeans from settling on Cherokee land. The boundary ran roughly where the county line exists today between Greenville and Spartanburg counties, and continues to be memorialized by the name of Line Street in Greer.

Beside the entrance to the Stillwaters community on Groce Meadow Road, there is a small family cemetery that also memorializes the early non-native settlers in the region. William Moon died in 1833, and is buried there with other members of his family. I am a descendant of William Moon’s sister Rachael Moon Glenn. William Moon was born in Virginia and migrated to South Carolina when Cherokee land was seized by the state during punitive raids on their towns in the Blue Ridge foothills. After the Revolutionary War ended, the state began making grants of land to men who had participated in the militias that had fought against British forces.

For much of my life, I had associated the native American history of the region of my youth with the Cherokee. But a significant discovery in the front yard of my grandparents’ home changed that impression forever. In the early 1990s, the Barnette house was vacant for several years, and the grounds around the house largely undisturbed. Grass was sparse in the yard fronting on Groce Meadow Road. The rains had eroded the bare patches of soil, and created tiny pedestals earth holding up small stones. One day, as I walked across the yard, scanning the ground, I notice one stone that was markedly different from the natural stones of the surrounding soil. It was a distinctive triangular shape, its edges expertly crafted to form a point and cutting surface. It was a non-local type of stone known as Chert, widely used by the native peoples to make weapons and tools. It was an arrowhead unlike any I had ever seen in my years kicking up clods behind my Grandpa’s mule.

I immediately assumed it to be Cherokee in origin. But the truth was much more interesting. I took the arrowhead to Chester B. DePratter, Research Professor at the South Carolina Institute of Archaeology and Anthropology, University of South Carolina. This expert on prehistoric people of the Carolinas rolled the arrowhead over in his palm, felt its edges and shape, and declared it to be of truly ancient origin.

The arrowhead was, DePratter said, a Morrow Mountain type of point, possibly as old as 7,000 to 10,000 years old. It dated human habitation of the land of my youth to a time almost unimaginable.

In their book “Greer: From Cotton Town to Industrial Center,” authors Ray Belcher and Joada F. Hiatt provide a more fulsome explanation of what local farmers, souvenir hunters and archeologists have concluded about the early human habitation of the Lake Robinson environs. Belcher and Hiatt describe a plethora of artifacts that have been discovered over many generations that give a sense of how native people used the region. There is little to no evidence of permanent towns or villages. But there is plentiful evidence that those early humans used the South Tyger River basin as camping grounds, working areas to make stone tools and hunting grounds.

At the end of Cove Harbor Court in the Lanford Point subdivision is a cove fed by a small stream that flows during periods of plentiful rain. Before the lake was built, the stream flowed into a naturally occurring swampy pond known as the Devil Catcher.

As the lake was being built and the land cleared by bulldozers, artifact hunters had a rare chance to scour the landscape. Many arrowheads, spear points and stone tools were discovered in the newly uncovered soil. The types included more Morrow Mountain points, likely acquired from people in other regions of the Carolinas. But the artifacts also included arrowheads made from the quartz stone found in the vicinity of the South Tyger River. There was even a location where myriad chips of stone suggested a “stone-knapping” site, where weapons and tools were manufactured.

There is no satisfactory account of how the swamp acquired its name, but in my youth at least, it was a sinister place, home to myriad creatures, most real and some likely imagined. Stories about creatures that lurked in the dense vegetation abounded, and were often told to youngsters to scare them, or keep them from venturing into the abyss.

The Devil Catcher was the source of adventure for young boys of the 1950s and 1960s, and tragedy as well. One sad day in the community involved a neighbor boy in his teens, who was killed in a duck-hunting accident while beaching an old wooden boat at the Devil Catcher. It shook those of us who knew him, and became a cautionary tale about gun safety for many of us.

My Grandpa Claude loved to go fishing at the Devil Catcher and I often went with him. Interconnected wagon roads and trails traversed about a mile distant from Grandpa’s house (which still exists at the corner of Brooke Ann Court and Groce Meadow Road) to the swampy pond. Grandpa was not the only person who frequented the Devil Catcher. A neighbor, John Henery, could often be seen strolling down Grandpa’s driveway, a bamboo fishing pole over his shoulder, headed for the swamp. One day as I passed the hottest part of a summer day on the screened porch with Grandpa Claude, John Henry emerged from the maze of trails carrying by its tail a large snapping turtle. He paused to talk with Grandpa, and declared that dinner for his family that night would be turtle stew.

Some people often used the dense, swampy river and creek drainages to hide illegal activity from the law, mostly in the form of making bootleg whiskey. My Uncle Robert Huff loved to hunt squirrels on my Hammond grandparents’ farm, today known as Hammond Pointe. But in the 1940s and for a couple of decades afterward, the river zone was a great hiding place. Bootleggers would sneak onto the property under the cover of darkness, and set up their illegal liquor stills they cobbled together from steel drums and other found materials. Over the years, Uncle Robert discovered more than one such illicit still on my Grandmother Pauline Hammond’s property. He would dutifully call the sheriff’s office, and deputies would be sent out with guns and axes to destroy the stills and collect evidence. One of my Grandpa Claude’s brothers was a deputy sheriff who sometimes assisted in the enforcement actions, and somehow my Grandpa always seem to have a gallon or two of the clear, powerful and untaxed booze in his pantry.

The most spectacular action against the bootleggers came one night when I was in high school. Sometime during the night, my brother Mike and I were awakened by a tremendous explosion some distance from the house. The next morning the telephone party line lit up with the story of the blast. Bootleggers had built a distilling operation in the very edge of the Devil Catcher. Sheriff’s deputies and revenue agents had been alerted to its existence and were watching as the bootleggers arrived after dark to continue their work. As the lawmen surprised the outlaws, the offenders fled into the Devil Catcher swamp, only to be chased down in the boggy water. The still was one of the largest in the region. Lawmen who usually chopped holes in barrels with axes saw that method as unrealistic. So they set off several sticks of dynamite in the middle of the distillery. The blast that awakened me and my brother flung parts of steel barrels and other debris high into the trees. We visited the site the next day, and saw the debris hanging from the tree limbs. A couple of barrels survived the blast intact, still containing the mixture of water and corn mash fermenting to become alcohol. I approached one of the barrels, peaked over the side, and saw a possum floating in the mash, apparently attracted by the smell of the fermentation and killed when he plunged into the deadly mixture. I continue to wonder to this day if, left uninterrupted, the bootleggers would have simply removed the dead possum and run the fermented liquid through their distiller coils anyway.

The Devil Catcher was the source of many stories that survive today, including the fabled existence of a race of large black cats, panthers, that were rumored to have lived in the swamp. Sometimes people believed they heard the frightening cries of the beast at night. It was a ghost, firmly embedded in local lore, but never seen, killed or captured. A warden on the lake fervently believes he spotted one of the cats in the headlights of his car near his home on Lake Robinson. It is difficult to believe that such a race of panthers could exist without one being killed on the roads by a car, or captured on the ubiquitous game cameras in the wilds today. But it is equally difficult to dislodge the belief that the beasts still roam the lake’s environs.

The shores of the lake have sprouted hundreds of homes since the basin filled in the late 1980s. But a few remnants of the farms that lined the South Tyger River survive. The broad grassy hillside beside the William Few Bridge that crosses the lake is a remnant of the land settled by my third great-grandfather, William Few, in about 1790. He lived on that hill until 1856, when he died at age 85. He is buried in a family cemetery, with other members of his clan. And some of his descendants still own that hillside.

Today, William Few’s view from his hilltop log cabin would be far different, comprising a broad expanse of water in a 950-acre lake with 27 miles of shoreline and 6.5 billion gallons of water capacity. The lake was conceived in the 1970s because the City of Greer’s first reservoir, Lake Cunningham, had become one-third filled with silt from erosion on upstream farmland and sand-mining in the South Tyger River. Today’s conservation measures enforced by the Greer Commission of Public Works aim to prevent a similar destruction of capacity in Lake Robinson.

Lake Robinson has brought a new vitality to this neck of the woods. Many of the new residents know little about the land’s history. But many, upon learning that I was born and grew up here, and have deep family roots in the area, are intensely curious. The Greer Commission of Public Works continues to seek to preserve some of the pastoral character of the lake, by protecting the lakeshore from development. These policies not only preserve the pleasing natural beauty of the space, but also protect the water quality. It is of utmost importance for the people of the Lake Robinson community to support the CPW in its efforts. This does not mean prohibiting people from using and enjoying the lake, but simply enforcing common sense policies to keep the lake safe, protect the environment, and pass it along for future generations to enjoy.

 

 

 

Greenville’s satellite villages getting new look

 

By James T. Hammond

Pelzer, a former textile mill village, is getting a new look from developers. Just 16 miles from Greenville, on the Anderson County side of the Saluda River, the community prospered with the mill built in 1882. It was the first electrified town in South Carolina, powered by the mill’s turbines.

The river crossing had been known as Wilson’s Ferry. My third Great Grandfather John Wilson owned the land, and represented the district in Congress. He’s buried under the village water tower.

The town has been slow to recover from the mass mill closings of the 20th century. In 1950, Pelzer had a population of 2,692; by 2010 just 89 people lived in the village.

Other Upstate villages have fared better. Growth in Simpsonville is driven by the region’s manufacturing renaissance. Travelers Rest has prospered with the wildly popular Swamp Rabbit Trail. Easley and Pickens want to reproduce that model by converting a rail line into a recreational trail.

When I left Greenville in 1979, Main Street was a hallow shell. Retailers including Belk and J.C. Penney moved to suburban malls. Furman University left a gaping hole in the heart of the city with its move to the suburbs. But visionaries were working to breathe new life into the small southern town that once touted itself as the Textile Capital of the World.

What a difference 40 years has made. We are entering a third generation of civic leaders who daily have made it their mission to made Greenville’s urban core a place where people want to live, work, play, and raise families.

Greenville County’s population in 2010 was 451,225, according to the U.S. Census. By 2015, that number was estimated to have grown to 474,903, and to 498,766 in 2016.

Local officials estimate that on average 22 people moved to Greenville County daily in 2016. The city is getting about 11 of those new residents per day. The Greenville News reported that the 5.8% growth rate makes the city the fourth fastest growing in the nation.

My life choice is that, on balance, change is good. You who read this are part of this change. The Greenville I find today is infinitely better than the city I left in 1979. How about you? Are you happy with this rapidly evolving place we call home?

 

 

OLLI weaves Furman’s ties to Greenville

Published in OLLILIFE, 2018

 

By James T. Hammond

For more than a century, Furman University anchored downtown Greenville, growing to cover a vast area still known as University Ridge. But when the university broke ground in 1953 for a new campus north of the city on 750 acres, many saw the move as abandonment of the city.

Former President David Shi told me once that when he first came to Furman as a student, the college gave him directions to avoid passing through downtown Greenville.

Not only did the move leave a large void on University Ridge; the consolidation with Greenville Women’s College took away another institution of higher learning on College Street.

But Furman has come a long way in its community outreach in 65 years since its move to the country. The relocation provided room to expand, growth impossible at the downtown location. And the university’s institutions have become more outwardly focused since it declared its independence from the South Carolina Baptist Convention in 1992.

About that time, a small group of Furman faculty, alumni and other Greenville citizens were organizing the Furman University Learning in Retirement program. In 1993, it offered seven classes to 62 members, operating in one classroom in Furman Hall under founder and Director Sarah Fletcher.

As then President David Shi began to realize the potential of the program to bind Furman to the community, a string of milestones followed.

In 2008, FULIR received the first installment of what would grow to a $1 million endowment from the Bernard Osher Foundation, securing operational funding for the program’s future. In 2009, membership reached 500 and FULIR became the Osher Lifelong Learning Institute at Furman, or OLLI.

As enrollment in OLLI soared, the leadership faced the realization that the program would need more, preferably its own, space. A $6 million, 22,000 square foot facility was conceived. As, membership climbed to 1,100, OLLI members raised $3 million. Several major gifts followed, including a “significant gift” from Furman trustee Gordon Herring that earned him naming rights for the new Herring Center.

Since 2012, when OLLI moved into its new home, membership more than doubled, to 2,350 from 1,200.

“There may be a day when we have more OLLI members than Furman students,” said OLLI Director Nancy Kennedy, who took over direction of the OLLI program from Lucy Woodhouse in 2014. “It is very important for Furman to have a presence in the community.”

This year is the 25th anniversary of the founding of FULIR, now OLLI. A 2016 survey of members showed a profile of a geographically diverse group: 46 percent of members had moved here within the past 9 years.

Some 60 percent of members are women. Ages of participants range 55-101; the largest cohort being 55-74.

Just 4 percent of members are minorities, and Kennedy added, “We’re working on that,” with presentations to groups with large minorities memberships.

The new building had a major impact on membership growth, Kennedy said, with improved parking, space for more and larger classes, and increased social opportunities such as card games and special interest groups.

“Members are proud to have their own place,” Kennedy said.

Motives vary for joining OLLI. Aside from the myriad classes, “Some people join for bonus events, some to play bridge, and some just to go to the dining hall,” she said. “And that’s all good.

“We’ve had some romances start here,” Kennedy said with a smile, “But I don’t think we’ve had anyone meet and marry here.”

 

 

Gettting to South Carolina’s high places

First published in OLLILIFE, January 2019

By James T. Hammond

I like high places.

Living in Greenville County, it’s easy to get to the highest places in our state. Recently, my brother Mike and I drove 45 minutes to get to the highest place in South Carolina, the peak of Sassafras Mountain in Pickens County. The state Department of Natural Resources is building an observation tower there and the view is spectacular. One can see the lakes that flood the mountain valleys of the Carolina Foothills.

Recently the state Department of Natural Resources installed permanent toilets, and a landscaped trail has been built from the parking lot to the peak. We enjoyed hanging out at the peak and surveying the surrounding mountains for 40 miles around. An observation desk that opened this spring improves the panoramic view from the peak.

To reach Sassafras Mountain peak, take Scenic Highway 11, passing Table Rock State Park, to US178. Turn right, traveling toward Rosman and Brevard. At Rocky Bottom, turn right on the F. Van Clayton Memorial Highway and drive until it ends at the peak.

Here are a few of my other favorite places, off the beaten path, within an hour of downtown Greenville.

Little Texas Grocery Is on State Park Road a short drive from US25. The small frame building that was a country store in my youth is now a hot dog stand that also sells Mike & Jeff’s Barbeque. You can also get a soft drink – my favorite is Cheerwine – in a glass bottle, just like the old days. And if you have car trouble, you can also get help. The owner operates a towing service from the location.

Overmountain Vineyard, 70 acres of wine grapes and winery, sits astride the Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail, which traces the route trod by rebel militia during the Kings Mountain campaign of 1780. Frank and LIta Lilly took the first steps toward building their dream almost 30 years ago. Today it rests in the middle of horse country near the Tryon International Equestrian Center. Buy a bottle of OMV wine, or a tasting several of their wines, and enjoy their spectacular veranda. Reach OMV from I-26, at 2012 Sandy Plains Road, Tryon, N.C.

Cedar Falls Park is where you’ll find the other Reedy River falls. The county park is at the site of a magnificent cataract and the brick and concrete remnants of a textile mill. 201 Cedar Falls Rd, Fountain Inn

Lake Conestee Nature Park comprises 400 acres of forest and trails, and three miles of the Reedy River. Citizens organized a non-profit to restore the former industrial area and maintain a polluted mill pond. Today it is home to diverse wildlife, including a Great Blue Heron rookery. Main entrance is at 840 Mauldin Road.

Trade Street in Greer retains much of the century-old charm I knew in my youth, and has become a new entertainment and small business destination. Discover its rich and growing foodie culture.

Lake Robinson Park is the public access area for the 900-acre gem of the Greer Commission of Public Works water system. Area fishermen know it well as the launching point for their boats. It also offers an opportunity for non-boaters to picnic and enjoy one of the best views of the Blue Ridge escarpment in the county. From Greer, drive north on SC101, turn left on Milford Church Road, and right on Groce Meadow Road, to the intersection with Mays Bridge Road.

Fisher’s Peach and Vegetable Market was started by my high school friend, the late Tommy Fischer. His family carries on the tradition at the historic Taylors Peach Shed on Locust Hill Road, and at the former Dillard’s Peach Shed on South Buncombe Road in Greer.

Saluda, N.C., nestled in the first folds of the Blue Ridge Mountains, and just off I-26, features a good café, The Purple Cow, a railroad museum, and a couple of interesting old general stories with themes of times gone by.

The town of Landrum, in Spartanburg County, which fell on hard times after its textile mill closed, is back and attracting a lot of attention. Reached by I-26 or US-14, it is a cornucopia of antique and other shops and restaurants.